Creamy Lemon-Tarragon Pasta

Do you have a favourite food writer these days? Every time I open my inbox, I’m tickled by the level of enjoyment I get out of Sam Sifton’s daily musings for NYT Cooking subscribers. He can make the most exciting dishes, like Khoresh-e Bademjoon (a Persian Eggplant and Tomato Stew) feel as approachable as Beef Stroagnoff. He fosters an exploration of new ingredients and techniques while encouraging no-recipe improv days in the kitchen. And sometimes, he just speaks of the mundanity of daily food preparation in a way that makes the process come alive.

It’s Sam Sifton to whom I credit the concept of the “house meal.” It’s the dish you can always fall back on when you’re lacking for inspiration. It’s the meal you always have the ingredients for, yet it’s customizeable to suit whatever ingredients are on hand. In short, it’s your go-to staple meal.

It’s Sam Sifton to whom I credit the concept of the “house meal.” It’s the dish you can always fall back on when you’re lacking for inspiration. It’s the meal you always have the ingredients for, yet it’s customizeable to suit whatever ingredients are on hand. In short, it’s your go-to staple meal.

This creamy pasta dish is certainly my house meal. Lemon and tarragon is a classic flavour combination that I never tire of, but sometimes I’ll swap the tarragon for basil, or omit the herbs alltogether. Maybe I have some fresh peas… in they go. Please play around with this basic cream sauce until it fits your life and fridge. It may just become a house meal for you too.

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 large shallot, finely diced
• 1/2 cup table cream (18%)
• 1/4 cup grated parmesan
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon pepper
• 1 tablespoon lemon zest
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice (plus more to taste)
• 2 tbsp fresh tarragon, chopped
• Parsley, chopped, for garnish
• 2/3 – 1 100g package of long, dried pasta

Process:

Heat a large pot of salted water to cook the pasta according to package directions.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter and toss in the shallot. Stir for a minute or two until shallots are translucent and fragrant.

Lower the heat to medium and pour in the cream. Immediately whisk to combine and continue stirring to avoid scortching.

Turn heat down to low, keeping sauce at a mild simmer. Add in lemon zest, lemon juice and stir for a couple of minutes. Add in the grated parmesan and stir until combined. The mixture will thicken substantially. Keep stirring while adding in the salt, pepper, and fresh tarragon. Continue stirring on low heat for a minute or two. At this point the pasta should be al dente – drain, retaining a cup full of pasta water.

Remove sauce from heat, add pasta directly into pan. Tossing gently with tongs to combine. Add in the reserved pasta water by the spoonfull to help the sauce lusciously adhere to the noodles, stopping when you’ve reached the desired level of creaminess.

Plate, scatter parsely over top, add a generous squeeze of additional lemon juice and enjoy!